Food: When expensive ingredients are replaced – experts sound alarm

In the supermarket, it can hardly be seen when the composition of the favorite muesli suddenly changes. The Hamburg Consumer Center sees a trick to deceive customers. Some manufacturers replace expensive ingredients such as meat, butter or hazelnuts with cheaper such as water or flavors, the association criticizes. The phenomenon is referred to as the “ski plant”.

“Consumers seem to buy the same product, but get less quality for money,” says Armin Valet, food expert at the consumer advice center. The practice is legal as long as the changed composition is correct on the packaging. “This is interesting for manufacturers if raw materials become more expensive.” This was how production costs could be saved. The sales price in turn usually remains the same.

The consumer center has published a new list of affected products this week. This also includes the “favorite nut nougat cream” by Netto. There the hazelnut share dropped from 20 to 13 percent. An inquiry to the Discounter chain Netto initially remained unanswered.

For the ketchup of the Kaufland-own brand KClassic, 73 percent of twice concentrated tomato paste is now used 72 percent simply concentrated. Recipes would be adjusted regularly, the supplier changed at the beginning of the year, the retail chain said. Sensory tests have confirmed that the product corresponds to the expectations of customers.

Industry association defends manufacturer

Another example is Knorr’s “Gourmass Lemon Sauce”. In it, the butter share was reduced from 25 to 10 percent. Consumers should now add five grams of butter themselves. The Unilever food company did not respond to a request from the dpa.

The melting cheese “Milkana creamy light” was also included in the list. Here the cheese content dropped from 65 to 42 percent. According to the manufacturer Savencia, the change is said to have improved the quality. Less cheese is included, but but also butter. The fat content is higher than before. According to a spokeswoman, the packaging is “even more delicious”.

The general manager of the food association Germany, Christoph Minhoff, rejects the allegations. What is denounced as a ski plant is “a necessary reaction”, for example to severely increased raw material prices, disturbed supply chains, new legal requirements or voluntary support such as reducing sugar, fat and salt.

Expert: Information such as “New recipe” is misleading

The list of the Hamburg Consumer Center comprises around 40 cases. According to Valet, the actual number should be significantly higher. He calls on customers to report affected products. Notes such as “new recipe” or “improved recipe” are misleading and reason enough to become skeptical. The problem: only those who compare the old and new list of ingredients notice differences. “But no one raises old products or knows their recipes,” said Valet.

Consumer advocates are calling for a clear and mandatory labeling of changes in recipe. According to Valet, it happens that there are also package sizes, often at the same price. This is called “Shrinkflation” – and is rarely disclosed by manufacturers.

The cereal producer Kölln chose a different path. The company recently announced that it reduces the filling quantity of chocolate mueslis-at the same price. This was justified, among other things, with the greatly increased cocoa price. The packaging should be marked accordingly.