On site
New directions at Chanel: After Virginie Viard’s departure, the design team designed a collection for the first time. The industry is now discussing whether creative directors are still needed.
It’s Tuesday morning, in the Grand Palais in Paris, Elvis Presley’s granddaughter Riley Keough is sitting on a swing in a huge birdcage and singing “When Doves Cry.” The actress floats above the backdrop while 77 beautiful models in looks that are just as enchanting pass by below her. A special setting with which Chanel presents the new summer collection for 2025. A certain lightness spreads among the guests present. As the sun shines through the building’s freshly cleaned windows, many people nod to each other and say: “It’s good that Chanel is here again!”
The French fashion house was unable to show its collections at the Grand Palais for four years. First the magnificent building was extensively renovated, then the Olympic Games took place. Now everything is back in its place. So does Chanel. The label has always used the backdrop for its legendary shows. The images of the replica rocket that Karl Lagerfeld once launched here are unforgettable. The iceberg was slowly melting, as was the supermarket, whose products were all printed with Chanel logos.
Chanel: New team spirit
With the current show, Chanel shows that the brand is also celebrating a creative comeback. After the surprising departure of designer Virginie Viard, the creative studio team designed the new collection. It was already clear at the Haute Couture in June that it might not take a head like Karl Lagerfeld to design an excellent collection in the style of the house. But back then, many of the ideas were still Viard’s.
Only now at the Pret-à-Porter show was the team able to show what they can do and what vision they have. And it is outstanding. The heaviness that many sometimes complained about Viard’s fashion has disappeared. The idea was to think about how young women today could wear Chanel with elegance and casualness. The skirts were shorter and partially slit, the iconic tweed jacket had a boxier cut. Even hot pants and dresses made of light jersey fabric could be seen. Everything in black, white and light pastel tones, which are also very “chan-like”.
Even the typical two-tone shoe got a youthful upgrade. From next season it will be available with a platform sole. And a mirrored heel was reminiscent of the famous mirror in the stairwell of Coco Chanel’s studio on Rue Cambon. Little things that are good for the company’s bestsellers.
The masterful craftsmanship the seamstresses can achieve was also evident in the details, such as a collar made of feathers that was designed with color gradients. Perhaps that’s what fashion president Bruno Pavlovsi meant when he said in July that Chanel doesn’t need a designer to put his personal stamp on a collection. Above all, it’s about the typical, globally known trademarks that have to be redefined every season. This message was understood by the creative team, who unfortunately did not take to the catwalk at the finale to enjoy the applause.
Like Chanel: Dries van Noten also shows designs from the design team
Maybe it’s the contemporary way that is now finding its way into the fashion world. Because while teamwork is very important in normal professional life, the fashion scene wants a head who leads the creative destinies. Someone who is celebrated at the end, explains his vision and to whom everyone credits the fashion shown. Teams are still referred to as “transitional.” Which is a shame.
Similar to Chanel, Dries van Noten’s design team also showed a collection a few days earlier that was created for the first time without the founder. As the employees walked down the catwalk together, Van Noten sat in the audience and applauded. A touching moment.
But fashion also lives from personalities. And there’s nothing better than sitting in the front row and discussing a little gossip before the show starts. Is designer Jonathan W. Anderson really leaving Loewe? And is it true that John Galliano is coming back to Dior and replacing Maria Grazia Chiuri?
There may be answers to this in the next few weeks. But you already received one on this sunny Chanel morning. The fashion house team did an excellent job. Chanel is back. At the Grand Palais. But also in modern times.
Source: Stern
I am an author and journalist who has worked in the entertainment industry for over a decade. I currently work as a news editor at a major news website, and my focus is on covering the latest trends in entertainment. I also write occasional pieces for other outlets, and have authored two books about the entertainment industry.
