It’s actually a bit of a shame that Istria is no longer part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire like it used to be. There are actually only a few regions in the world where as many advantages are combined in 2,800 square kilometers as here – especially culinary.
If you’ve been in Italy for a few days before, you’ll notice this difference even more clearly. Italy is world class, also when it comes to cuisine. But in Novigrad alone, one of the first of many beautiful fishing towns on Croatian soil, one excellent restaurant follows the next: with an incredible density of Falstaff or other recommendations, with simple restaurants in particular receiving awards. It doesn’t have to be the famous “Damir & Ornella”, where you can get everything from fish to dessert – even sushi. Places like the “Konoba Gatto Nero” make you happy. Tip: try the grilled fish platter for two or truffle pasta; and drink the house wine with it: of course a Malvasia, the wine of Istria.
War museum and history
Novigrad (Italian: Cittanova) with around 4,000 inhabitants has been renovated everywhere in recent years and looks like a small Rovinj. Nice little streets, a beautiful old town, lots of shops and souvenir shops, plus a colorful audience with a high proportion of Austrians who appreciate all of these advantages: not forgetting, of course, the sea. The small harbor where the fishing boats dock early in the morning is picturesque. “You have to try the catch,” shouts one of the fishermen in perfect German. No wonder that the catch of the day is on the menu at most restaurants.
Istria is not only beautiful in midsummer, many tourists discover it for themselves in autumn. The temperatures are a lot milder than at Lake Traunsee, and some people are now traveling around the region on e-bikes. You don’t have to be brave when swimming: the sea is still 23 degrees in October. There is a lot to discover that you either don’t get to or aren’t able to do in the summer heat. For example, the hilly surrounding area or the history: Novigrad’s old town rests on the remains of an ancient settlement – Nova or Emonia – and was the seat of a diocese from 381 to 1831. At the Congress of Vienna in 1815, when the Illyria region was awarded to the Habsburgs, Cittanova also came under Austrian rule. In 1828 the diocese of Cittanova was abolished by a papal decree and joined to the diocese of Trieste and Capodistria.
After the First World War and the end of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Novigrad, like all of Istria and Trieste, became part of the Kingdom of Italy. The mostly crenellated old town wall was built in the 13th century; at low tide you can walk along underneath and explore the city and the sea. A tip: The Gallerion War Museum, opened in 2005 by photographer Sergio Gobbo, is dedicated to the Austro-Hungarian fleet of the Imperial and Royal Navy during the First World War. Today, Novigrad also benefits from the proximity of large cities such as Trieste and Venice. It’s not far by car or boat.
Wineries and drinks
A visit to one of the numerous olive oil producers is almost mandatory: Istria is now considered the best oil region and wins international awards for its oils every year. From Chiavalon to Avistria in Lovrec. Beatrix and Rudolf Nemetschke, from the Salzkammergut, produce the finest olive oil here, which has won multiple gold awards.
You can also see what treasure the dark red or black soils hide when you visit the organic winery “Veralda” near Buje, run by the Visintin family (veralda.hr). “We mainly produce Malvasia and Refosco,” says Marina Visintin. The latter is a red wine. But there are also sparkling wines (Xtrian Brut) that taste like champagne, and heavier wines that are stored for a long time in oak barrels.
The Swiss have also discovered Novigrad and built a new hotel in the old town: the four-star Hotel Blu Mare – with 27 rooms. It belongs to the Swiss hotel group “Cachet Hotel Collection” and is one of the few hotels directly by the sea. It can only be reached car-free, but there is an e-shuttle service. This includes the excellent restaurant (“Porporela”) – with a sea view. Many people who walk along the beach promenade just stop by for a drink and watch the picturesque sunset. Including tennis instructor Uwe from Carinthia, who has lived in Novigrad for more than ten years: “It’s one of the most beautiful places here.” He’s right.
Tips and accommodation
The Four-star boutique hotel “Blu Mare” in the center of Novigrad is one of the best addresses to stay overnight. Located directly on the sea, with its own beach area, a total of only 23 rooms and four suites. It belongs to the Swiss hotel group “Cachet Hotel Collection”, great and modern design. The hotel has its own restaurant “Porporela”, where breakfast is also served. The double room is available from 180 euros per night. Info: blumarehotel.com/de
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Source: Nachrichten
