The parades had to be lived “with gravity”, requested the president of the French Fashion Federation, Ralph Toledano.
Although the collections had been designed months before, the creators favored the most “protective” pieces, and a solemn aesthetic.
“The world has been going through a serious moment for a long time, fashion has integrated this feeling of seriousness. It is impregnated with the smell of time,” declared fashion historian Olivier Saillard.
Dior presented, for example, an “off-road, very appropriate, almost prescient” outfit, he explained.
The French luxury brand introduced airbags in the form of corsets or vests. A gray dress evoked the armor of yesteryear, with shoulder pads and ankle guards for protection.
Fashion has already lived two hard years, of introspection, because of the Covid-19, considers the Italian Dior woman stylist, Grazia Chiuri.
“There is a lot of introspection. How to associate beauty, aesthetics with protection, in these times?”, This designer explained.
The war in Ukraine “is much closer to all of us. But the world was already at war. The covid was another war (…), we have experienced extremely difficult months,” he said.
Balmain also presented padded corsets, creations that looked like bulletproof vests, golden shields.
“My collection may seem to have been inspired by the big headlines, so distressing (…). But it is clear that such a quick reaction would not have been possible”acknowledged the Balmain stylist, Olivier Rousteing.
Belgian Anthony Vaccarello, artistic director of Saint Laurent, broke for the first time with his “sexy glam” aesthetic to present a poetic parade, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, to suggest “a moment of reflection”.
Black, long dresses, tuxedo cut with trousers and sumptuous faux fur coats abound in his collection. Gone is the provocation.
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Stella McCartney returned to Paris displaying her almost legendary commitment to animal welfare. Her proposal for her woman is with cheerful colors, but there is no trace of leather, or materials that do not comply with strict environmental controls.
His parade started with a few words from US President John Fitzgerald Kennedy and was closed with the song by John Lennon and Yoko Ono “Give Peace a Chance”.
The Japanese Yohji Yamamoto presented clothes that cover women from head to toe, with layers of fabric that overlap, giving the impression of temporality, of precipitation.
American Rick Owens, addicted to parades with an apocalyptic tone, presented a show accompanied by Gustav Mahler’s Symphony No. 5, a dreamlike and solemn moment.
The artificial mist gave way on its catwalk to silhouettes in extra-long gray suits or large anoraks, again quilted.
“The issue of protection was very much on the agenda this week. The same thing happened in London,” said Dana Thomas, an American journalist and author of “Fashionopolis.”
A special moment was the Balenciaga show, imagined by Demna, a Georgian creator who fled another Russian invasion years ago.
It was a declaration of love and support for Ukraine, with a poem recited in Ukrainian, t-shirts in the colors of its flag, and an explanatory note warning that fashion “lost its right to exist” during the war.
The models paraded on snow, some half naked, evoking refugees.
And Louis Vuitton also took up the colors of the Ukrainian flag, yellow and blue, for one of its creations: an extra long t-shirt, on top of an elegant and flowing skirt.
Source: Ambito
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