When one door closes, another opens somewhere else. In the past, in gastronomy, one often had the impression that the doors of traditional inns remained closed forever. Do you now shrug your shoulders at this, or do you prefer to convince yourself of the opposite?
A trip to the Urfahr district of Linz is recommended for pessimists. The Lehner tavern has been serving guests there since 1847. On April 1, Michael Wenzel continued to run the tavern as tenant after Margot Koll. It can be assumed that the doors will remain open for a long time. It is thanks to the chef, who has been working in the company for eight years, that the quality has noticeably improved over the past few years. And that despite the fact that the tavern with 200 seats, all-day opening hours (from 11:30 a.m. to 10:00 p.m.) and two outdoor dining areas (one of which is self-service) represents a logistical challenge.
But the team works perfectly. Except for fries, it makes almost everything itself: Wenzel gets pork from the family business in Ottensheim, sausages are made by his father-in-law. Two years ago, the chef also planted 70 berry bushes and is also meeting the demand in summer with salads, cucumbers and zucchini from his own cultivation.
Brau Union supplies beer. Among other things, the Linz Original, which is brewed in Zipf. Or the Lehner’s beer specially mixed for the inn.
The kitchen remains unchanged, success proves Wenzel right. On Saturday, the first guests arrive at 11 a.m. Good home cooking just works: strengthening, flawless beef soup With spleen sections (4.30 euros) for example. Or one appropriate to the season wild garlic soup (4.90 euros). However, the thrown together biscuits and bread cubes deserve a crispy feel-good treatment.
The exquisite Veal cream bagel is well cut, has a soothing acidity, tasted a little spicy and spiced up with hearty goulash juice (10.90 euros). Minced patties with creamy mashed potatoes and tasty natural juice (12.50 euros) dock in the pleasure center. The fresh side dish, a well-marinated salad with rocket, sorrel or watercress is the perfect accompaniment to the Laberl.
This also applies in principle to the fried and tasty food trout fillet on crisp vegetables (18.50 euros), in which a piece of lemon is fried for aromatic purposes and can trigger a sensory miracle in the case of poor eyesight.
pancakes (5.40 euros) the kitchen team shoves freshly out of the pan. Served with homemade, warm (!) apricot jam. Splendid. What else is there to say, except: come in, the inn door is open!
Category: Tavern
Harbacher Strasse 38, 4040 Linz
Telephone: 0732/730510
Closing days: Monday, Tuesday
www.wiazhaus-lehner.at
Kitchen service: 4 out of 6 cooking spoons
Barrier-free, barbecue evenings with music, gourmet evenings
Source: Nachrichten
