When life and hustle and bustle set in along the long quay wall in the port of Rijeka, then it is mid-May and the island hopping season has begun for the fleet of the “ID Riva”. You also notice that on Saturdays many people walk up and down with a smile, but many also with a more serious facial expression, more or less hectically. Those with a cheerful expression still have a nice holiday ahead of them, those with a more serious expression have had a nice week and will soon be on their way home.
Holidays on ships, which range from luxurious to simple, have been booming for a number of years. Also in the thick of it were the two Naturfreunde bike guides, Herbert Schöttl from the Ottensheim Friends of Nature and his colleague Wolfgang Greisinger from the Ennser Friends of Nature group.
For more than ten years, the two have been going on tour with a group at least once a year: “It’s the best vacation you can imagine: biking on a different island every day, eating well and in the evening there’s a lot of fun,” says Herbert Schöttl, who is traveling with bikers in the Kvarner Bay for a total of three weeks this year.
The “Albatross” from Norway
The two guides have also completed tours by ship and bike further down in Croatia, from Zadar. You have been sailing on the historic ship “Albatros” for years. A former fishing ship, built in 1935, which comes from Norway and whose interior offers a little more comfort for optimal relaxation after strenuous daily stages. The captain of this ship, Alan, is also a veteran of the ID Riva fleet. Alan is part of a long tradition of seafaring originating from the small town of Supetarska Draga on the island of Rab. His father-in-law was one of the first to offer island hopping.
Now Captain Alan skilfully steers his wooden ship through the Kvarner Bay. Once you have holidayed on the “Albatros”, you belong to the “Albatros” family and you are always welcome when paths cross. The two Naturefriends guides have also stopped by on the “Albatros” away from an island hopping holiday and had many a glass of Prosek or Pelinkovac with Alan.
20 thirsty bikers at the inn
The tour usually begins on Saturday afternoon when everyone is on board towards the island of Krk, to the main town of the same name. There, after breakfast on Sunday, the bikes are mounted and the actual holiday begins. It’s warm, the sun is shining and a week of beautiful tours awaits. The two guides now know almost every trail on the islands. “Nevertheless, we learn something new every time,” says Herbert Schöttl.
The Naturefriends guides also know where to find good food and drink and nice staff at the taverns, the inns. It has also happened that when 20 thirsty bikers show up, the innkeeper is a little overwhelmed. “But then one guide goes to the beer tap and the other helps the innkeeper to serve it,” says Schöttl.
In the north of the island of Krk, in the village of Vrbnik, after a swim in a nice bay, a visit to the winery that produces the famous Zlahtina wine is a must. Strengthened after a snack followed by a wine tasting, we head back towards the ship.
Not only the island of Krk offers beautiful and interesting sights. On the island of Pag you cycle past olive trees that are up to 1400 years old. The city of the same name with its historic old town and four churches is also worth taking a break. On the island of Dugi Otok, you cycle into Telascica Bay and walk a short distance to the imposing cliffs before heading to the famous Silver Lake, the setting for the first Winnetou film.
Wherever it is possible and the tour plan allows, a swim stop is made, usually near a bar or konoba. Which is why a small backpack with bathing suits is a constant companion for bikers. Ships are often chartered as a whole, as is the case with the Naturfreunde group, which has booked with the same travel agency on Ottensheim’s market square from the very beginning. The advantage of this is that you can sometimes drive off the beaten track and thus always learn something new.
“We now have a real friendship with Captain Alan. We also talk on the phone several times during the year. Alan also asks him before our trip what he can react to. Be it a different route or which drink is currently in fashion”, so Schöttl.
A traditional route leads from Rijeka to the islands of Krk, Rab, Pag, Dugi Otok, Mali Losinji and Cres. If the entire ship is chartered, it is possible to skip individual islands, add another one or simply ride a different bike route. “Everything is possible with Alan, provided the weather doesn’t put a spanner in the works,” say the two nature lovers. But they don’t just appreciate the flexibility. They also benefit again and again from the great insider knowledge about sights or good restaurants of various ship captains.
Depending on the size of the ship, the crew consists of the captain, usually the ship’s owner, as well as a cook, a kitchen hand and a waiter. The crew members are also deployed as sailors during docking and casting off maneuvers. There is a lounge on the ship where drinks are served during the day, entered into a list and billed on the last day. The catering usually consists of half board. Breakfast and one meal will be taken on board. “We always talk to the captain beforehand,” says Schöttl. In beautiful places (Rab, Mali Losinj, Krk) the group usually goes to a nice pub together in the evening. Then there is the meal at noon on the ship.
Refreshment at the swim stop
A special highlight of every island bike tour is always the swimming stops during the boat trips – a good opportunity to jump into the water from the upper deck or look for mussels in bays. After an hour, the journey then continues to the next stage destination. The group, which usually consists of 20 people, is only on mountain bikes, some on trails, the second on roads or simple country lanes. It is not uncommon for thorny tendrils to cross the path of trail bikers, who then often return to the ship with broken hoses. The “thorn birds”, as they are called, then sit on the deck and mend their hoses, because it is difficult to buy them on most islands.
Bikers often cycle along the sea, on paths where no cars drive – like on the route from Mali Losinj to Veli Losinj. These four kilometers in the small but nice place of the same name are a must. The same applies to a visit to the bar on the quay, where some enjoy an Aperol and others an ice cream before heading back, but not without stopping for a swim in a bay along the way.
“The captain usually drops the bikers off at the beginning of an island, which is where the tour starts. The captain then continues on his ship to the destination, where the group goes back on board,” explains Schöttl. Depending on the island, between 22 and 50 kilometers and usually a few meters of altitude are covered.
If you don’t feel like biking, stay on board and enjoy sunbathing on the upper deck and the passing landscape. “No problem at all,” said the organizers, who are happy about the lively attendance. This type of holiday is now so popular that the ship is fully booked within a few days as soon as the invitation to tender is sent to regular customers.
The fleet of the tour operator ID Riva, a German company, consists of a total of 31 motor sailers and motor yachts in the categories Comfort to Deluxe. In addition to Rijeka, ships also start from Zadar, Trogir or Dubrovnik. Many cabins are equipped with shower/toilet, air conditioning, WiFi internet etc.
Unfortunately, every week, no matter how nice, comes to an end in the port of departure Rijeka. The two guides are satisfied: the group enjoyed a great week’s holiday and many of the island bikers will definitely come back.
- Info below: ottensheim.naturfreunde.at
Source: Nachrichten
