From Collioure to Cadaqus

When winter still dominates here, the longing for the sea often arises, usually in combination with coastal hikes. This time it was a city trip to Barcelona, ​​which we combined with an exploration of the border region with France. From Barcelona you can take the train or bus to Perpignan and from there continue to the starting point. From Argelès-sur-Mer in France, the route follows the Catalan coast to Roses in Spain. The most attractive sections:

On rocky paths to Banyuls

Collioure, famous for its anchovies, was once a large fishing village. Fascinated by the southern colors, famous painters such as Matisse, Derain and Picasso soon arrived. In the streets there are many galleries and handicraft shops. Here we start our coastal hike. The route leads out of the village first through populated areas. Past defenses from the Second World War, the path leads high above the sea to Port-Vendres. Colorful boats bobble in the bay, cafés invite you to take a break. From here it continues on rocky paths high above the sea, lined with blooming asphodel. At Cap Bear, you descend into a cove, only to follow the rocky path up again. It goes on like this and, passing beaches, you finally reach Banyuls-sur-Mer. Tasteful large rooms in the Clos St. André winery will be remembered.

On the Benjamin Way to Portbou

This mountain stage follows Walter Benjamin’s escape route and crosses the border from France to Spain. It is the foothills of the Pyrenees that drop down to the sea here. Follow the signs that soon lead out of the village up into the vineyards around Banyuls. We continue on narrow, increasingly stony paths past gnarled cork oaks. You reach a spring with a commemorative plaque. The group around Walter Benjamin stopped here. It was an arduous escape for the heart-sick philosopher.

After a longer crossing under the ridge, you reach the transition at Coll de Rumpissar after about two hours. From here it continues on Spanish territory. Descend through dense bush until the mountain path joins a forest road that descends into the valley and out to the sea at Portbou. The place seems rather unadorned, dominated by a huge marshalling yard.

From Cap Creus to Cadaques

Colera, Llancà and Port de la Selva are behind us and the Cap de Creus, a wild rocky peninsula swept by wind and waves, is our next destination. From the lighthouse, climb rocky outcrops to the crag at the Cap. Back we first follow the road and turn right to make a loop through the rock formations of the Pla de Tudela. From rabbits to eagles to camels, with a little imagination you can find almost a whole rock zoo. It is hard to believe that there was a Club Mediterranée here until 2004, the area has been renatured.

Follow the GR 11 back towards the lighthouse and then turn onto the path that leads to Cadaqués, lined with dry stone walls. Salvador Dali’s favorite place is a perfect end point of the coastal hike. You can easily reach Figueres by bus, where you can continue to walk in the footsteps of the eccentric artist in the Dali Museum.

Getting there: From Perpignan by train or bus to Collioure. From Cadaqués by bus to Figueres. There are regular train and bus connections between the coastal towns (sncf.de, renfe.com, bus1euro.cd66.fr, compras.moventis.es/de).

Requirements: From stony rocky paths to wide panoramic paths, you will find everything on the hikes along the coast. The Walter-Benjamin-Weg leads over a mountain saddle to Spain. The descent is partly narrow and rocky. All paths are signposted and marked.

Information about the tour

Collioure-Banyuls-sur-Mer
walking time: 4 hours
Length: 16.6 kilometers
Altitude: 250
Route: Collioure (5 m) – Cap Cros (50 m) – Port-Vendres (5 m) – Cap Bear (110 m) – Banyuls (5 m)

Walter-Benjamin-Weg
walking time: 3-4 hours
Length: 13.5 km
Altitude: 600
Route: Banyuls (5m) – Coll de Rumpissar (531m) – Portbou (5m)

Cap de Creus to Cadaques
walking time: 4 hours
Length: 13.4 km
Altitude: 450
Route: Cap de Creus (83 m) – Pla de Tudela (60 m) – Cadaqués (5 m)

cbrava.com, collioure.fr, historia-viva.net/de, sued-france-wandern.de

Garmin GPS file:

By the wayside

Walter benjamin: The German philosopher fled the Nazis from Berlin to Paris in 1933 and then to southern France in 1940. Together with Lisa Fittko, who was also being pursued, he made the arduous journey over the mountains to Portbou in Spain. When the Spanish authorities there prohibited him from continuing his journey, he became desperate and took his own life. In 1993 a memorial was erected in his honor at Portbou Cemetery.

Book tip: A travel and hiking guide around the French-Spanish border at the foothills of the Pyrenees. 22 hiking tours with a detailed map and information on art, history, nature and the places in the region.

Uli Frings: “Collioure, Cadaqués and the wild Catalan coast”, price 14.80 euros; Order at: sued-france-wandern.de.