It was once an adventure to fly to Madeira. The airfield on the Atlantic island was reserved for specially trained pilots, because the breezes blowing in from the sea were too stiff, the curve that had to be taken in order to hit the landing strip without friction was too tight, and above all the runway was too short. But since the runway was extended in 2000 from the original 1,600 to 2,777 meters, all types of aircraft have been able to land safely. Today the airport is officially called Aeroporto Internacional da Madeira Cristiano Ronaldo. And this is where our beautiful journey begins.
The first thing that strikes you when you exit the airport terminal is a bronze bust of what is arguably the island’s most famous son. You can’t get past Cristiano Ronaldo here. In Funchal, in front of the museum that Cristiano’s brother initiated and in which countless memorabilia are on display – most of them originals plus a number of trophy copies – there is a larger-than-life statue of the football hero, with which many visitors naturally have their picture taken. Not far from there is Cristiano Ronaldo’s childhood home. It is said that his mother walks to a nearby café every day and is not averse to a nice chat.
Around 254,000 people currently live on the 741 square kilometer island of Madeira, which is politically part of Portugal but is semi-autonomous, most of them – almost 112,000 – in the capital Funchal. This is also where the pulsating life takes place without becoming excessive in a negative sense. This highly interesting city has retained a certain rural, even quiet style in some areas.
Funchal’s many highlights
Here are some highlights of Funchal that are particularly worth mentioning and worth visiting: There is the port, from which you can take boats to explore the sea – with a very high probability of actually seeing dolphins and even whales at certain times of the year. Then the market, the Mercado dos Lavradores: a paradise for fruit, vegetable, flower and of course fish lovers. Not to forget the Rua de Santa Maria, the oldest street – due to its narrowness rather alley – of the city, which was breathed new life by artists by providing the house entrances with imaginative paintings. And the wine cellar: This is where the world-famous Madeira is stored, served and sold, including vintages well back into the 19th century, which have their price today.
In terms of landscape, the Monte, the mountain above Funchal, stands out, in the truest sense of the word. The cable car takes you quickly up to 568 meters above sea level. From the mountain station it is only a few minutes’ walk to the huge botanical garden, where plants of all kinds from all over the world can be found. What is striking is the lush vegetation that can be found almost everywhere on Madeira, an incomparable abundance. It seems like late spring all year round. No wonder that many speak of the “island of flowers”, and quite rightly so, even if the actual export hit is of a different vegetable nature: bananas. The garden is also a sensation and should not be left out if possible.
Also on the Monte is the Catholic pilgrimage church of Nossa Senhora do Monte, in which (with the exception of the heart) the mortal remains of the last Austrian Emperor Karl, who died in Funchal in 1922 and was beatified in 2004, are buried. In general, Madeira seems to have had a certain attraction for the Austrian imperial family, because Empress Elisabeth also came here for a cure after she had been diagnosed with a lung disease.
Sledding in the basket
From the Monte there are several ways to get back to the city: on foot, by car (narrow and winding, not recommended), by cable car or by the Carro de Cesto, the sled-equipped basket sled – it’s great fun, sliding down the Caminho do Monte street to the upper outskirts of Funchal. Two sled drivers, the Carreiros do Monte, dressed in traditional white costume, are in control of the vehicle.
There are currently 150 active drivers, and as madeiraallyear.com tells us, there are special features: Each Carreiro is assigned a fixed number that determines the order of departure. If the last trip with the number 37 took place the day before, the number 38 begins the next day.
The art of driving the sled is passed on from today’s drivers to the trainees. If the carreiro of a certain number decides to retire soon, he will teach the future driver, who will also adopt his number, all the necessary skills to drive the sled. Incidentally, the vehicle gets its gliding ability on the asphalt from a special tallow that is used to lubricate the runners.
And one more amusing fact: Monte, church and wicker sleigh appear in Walt Disney’s Funny Paperback #52, “Micky Always on the Move” (1978), in the opening story “The Chasuble”. Avid comic readers will certainly remember the chase with the tomcat Karlo.
Off to the north
With a Land Rover Defender (for experts: 110s) from the company Green Devil, we are now going from the populated region of Funchal through tunnels to the northern regions: less populated, because of the microclimatic conditions on Madeira a little rougher in terms of wind, weather and temperatures regards. But here, almost in the countryside, you can really experience nature. Rivers, streams, mountains, meadows, hiking trails, small villages – it’s a kind of Upper Pinzgau without Pinzgau cows, and the whole thing looks a bit more tropical visually. The scenery is beautiful, the people – we haven’t even mentioned this – are incredibly friendly and accommodating, and most of them speak great English.
Revealing insider tips is actually nonsense, because that’s how secrets lose their character. But in this case it may be forgiven. There is a point to the north, Caminho da Entrosa, which can be reached via the Caminho do Cardo, at the end of which there is a parking lot. Continue on foot along a leisurely hiking trail, and within a few minutes you will find yourself at a snack bar with a sensational view (see photo on the right), or – if you take the path to the left down to the sea – at a unique, lonely rocky and sandy beach. Well, that’s about it for the loneliness…
Spectacular mountain roads
Here in the north are also the most picturesque streets, some of which have now had to be closed to motor vehicle traffic due to the risk of falling rocks. But cycling is nicer here anyway than sitting in a car. In the past, you actually had to calculate up to five hours by car to get from Funchal to this magnificent area. Due to the tunnels mentioned, it now only takes a good half hour. But if you want to rent a car, you are well advised to take the old mountain roads – an experience!
Speaking of mountains: Madeira should, indeed must, be hiked. There are paths and climbs here that are perhaps not recommended for those who are not quite so free from giddiness, but for everyone else the wonderful route to the Pico Ruivo, the highest peak on the island at 1862 meters, should be recommended. You don’t experience something like this every day. Take enough water with you!
Now that five percent of all the sights of Madeira have been dealt with, four more tips:
1. Poncha: a drink made from 50% locally produced cane sugar rum, oranges, lemons and honey. The stuff tastes great, but it does its job… watch out!
2. Porto Moniz: swim at a rocky natural bridge.
3. Cabo Girao: at 589 meters one of the highest cliffs in the world. From a glass plate, which strangely also holds many people entering, you can look down until you get dizzy (triggered by too much poncha).
and 4. the “Gmunden of the Madeirans” should not go unmentioned: the small and absolutely not overcrowded neighboring island of Porto Santo. This is where those locals go on vacation who want to distance themselves from vacationers on their own vacation island.
Whether wine, hiking or a study trip: Booking tips for Madeira
Ruefa is offering one-week cultural and study trips to Madeira until September 8th. Included are a scheduled flight Vienna-Madeira-Vienna via Lisbon, hotels (****) with breakfast and dinner as well as a sightseeing program (including the botanical garden in the island’s capital Funchal), a visit to a winery including wine tasting and a ride on the basket sleigh ( carros de cesto). Price 1390 euros per person in a double room. Info and booking: ruefa.at and in all Ruefa travel agencies (www.ruefa.at/angebote/details/PFNCMA22/madeira-die-blumeninsel-bequem-und-geruhsam)
Also offered by Ruefa is a seven-night trip at the Hotel do Castanheiro (****) in Funchal under the motto “Madeira – Holidays on the Flower Island” at a price of 1,725 euros per person in a double room. Last bookable date is October 27th to November 3rd (www.ruefa.at/angebote/details/STUMA0101/madeira-ferien-auf-der-blumeninsel)
Another tip for stopovers and overnight stays in Lisbon: the Hotel Mama Shelter, which opened this year, can soon be booked via Ruefa.
Source: Nachrichten
