“The Beach”: Leonardo DiCaprio’s dream beach is closing

But the “Titanic” star is indirectly to blame for the fact that from the beginning of August to the end of September one of the most beautiful beaches in the world has to be closed again due to the high environmental pollution – the Maya Bay on the Thai dream island of Ko Phi Phi Leh.

Of course, it wasn’t DiCaprio’s intention. But with his dropout drama “The Beach”, which was released in cinemas in 2000, he triggered a global visitor hype overnight, which the uninhabited tropical island near Phuket did not last long.

• From the archive: Dream beach from “The Beach” has to be closed to tourists again

Just like in a Hollywood blockbuster, the picturesque bay really does resemble a hidden Garden of Eden: powder-white sand, turquoise water. The jungle stretches right up to the beach, which is framed by imposing limestone cliffs. The dream bay is difficult to see from the sea. The perfect filming location for director Danny Boyle, in whose film a group of hippie dropouts led by Leonardo DiCaprio live in a beach paradise isolated from civilization.

Consequences were devastating

But since the film’s success, Maya Bay has been overrun by masses of holidaymakers and is on the to-do list for almost all travelers to Thailand. Up to 6,000 tourists are brought to the remote bay every day by speedboat from the inhabited neighboring island of Phi Phi Don and even from Phuket. A selfie on the dream beach known for years as “DiCaprio” Beach is on the “bucket list” in southern Thailand.

The consequences were devastating: the anchors of the countless excursion boats and the masses of bathing holidaymakers destroyed the reef and the coral. The blacktip sharks that raised their young in the shallow bay disappeared, as did the sea turtles. Garbage piled up on the beach, while the sand became increasingly scarce. Practically everyone took original sand from “The Beach” with them in empty water bottles.

At the urging of well-known marine biologists, the authorities finally pulled the ripcord in June 2018 and closed Maya Bay to visitors. Then the corona pandemic broke out. The bay was not reopened to holidaymakers until January 2022 – but under strict conditions: swimming and snorkeling are strictly prohibited. Visitors are only allowed into the water up to their knees. Rangers patrol the beach. They repeatedly whistle holidaymakers out of the water who go further in than allowed so as not to have other tourists in their selfies. Anyone who leaves rubbish lying around or takes sand or shells with them faces heavy fines. Feeding fish is prohibited. Bringing disposable packaging is also prohibited.

Boats are no longer allowed to dock in the bay

Boats are no longer allowed to dock in the bay. Tourists are now dropped off at a floating pier on the other side of the island, where they pay an entrance fee and have to walk a few hundred meters across a wooden walkway through the jungle to Maya Bay. And every year during the rainy season between August and the end of September, the bay is completely closed so that nature can recover.

This is unfortunately necessary because, despite all the new rules of conduct, the burden on the environment is still high. The reason: “Visitors come from various neighboring islands without registering. No control system has been developed to really limit the daily number of tourists,” regrets Peera Boonsang, director of the SAii Phi Phi Village Resort on the main island of Ko Phi Phi Don.

After the reopening of Maya Bay two years ago, no more than 375 visitors were initially allowed per day. Then it was said that they would be allowed per hour. Finally, the “restriction” was set at 4,000 people per day – perhaps the 15 million euros from the annual visitor tickets are more important than the coral and shark populations.

Thailand lives from tourism

Thailand lives from tourism. The Phi Phi Islands in the Andaman Sea do too. “But we need sustainable tourism,” says Boonsang. Not just for ethical reasons. It’s also about business. The paradisiacal nature is one of the main reasons why tourists visit the islands.

Like the SAii Resort, more and more hotels in the Phi Phi archipelago are committed to protecting not only the tourist magnet Maya Bay, but also the other islands in the 390 square kilometer marine national park. “In addition to sustainable water, electricity and waste management, we regularly carry out beach cleanups, plant mangroves and use our Marine Discover Center to raise awareness among our guests about the fragile ecosystem,” explains Wanlob Hasalem, hotel manager at the SAii Phi Phi Village Resorts.

“The reef is in good condition again”

The hotel’s own marine center breeds clownfish and nurses bamboo sharks that are accidentally caught by fishermen before they are released back into the wild. The Discovery Center’s diving center also helped reforest the destroyed corals in Maya Bay. The Mu Koh Phi Phi Marine National Park is particularly well-known for its incredible variety of coral reefs and is considered an important refuge for many endangered shark and turtle species.

“The reef is in good condition again. Even the blacktip sharks and green turtles have returned to Maya Bay,” explains diving guide Paisan Pradsnphan. Above all, the break for nature during the Corona pandemic with the worldwide travel restrictions has done the underwater world good. Now he hopes that the balancing act between tourism and environmental protection can also be managed.

But the view from the diving boat into Maya Bay, where hordes of tourists can once again be seen on DiCaprio’s beach, raises doubts. Adrian Sidler is optimistic, however. “I was here ten years ago. The whole bay was full of party boats, the beach completely overcrowded. I think they’ll get it right here,” says the 30-year-old Swiss. The fact that you’re no longer allowed to swim is fine. “That way you always get photos like in Leonardo DiCaprio’s time,” jokes the vacationer from Zug, Switzerland.