Image: Huber Winery, Reichersdorf
With just under 800 hectares of cultivated land, Grüner Veltliner plays the leading role. In terms of quality, the Riesling also plays its perfect role in this orchestra. Unlike in the Wachau with its primary rock soils or on the Wagram, where the loess soils shape the taste profile of the local variety, in the Traisental there are soils with a very high lime content that are rich in minerals. Optimal water storage on the one hand and typical spicy impressions give the wines their typical aroma and taste. An optimal mixed climate of Pannonian influence (warmth) and cool downdrafts from the foothills of the Alps bring the clear, fine and finesse aromas to the berries.
At home in the tranquil Reichersdorf, Markus Huber runs the family winery, which is highly rated nationally and, above all, internationally. The local flagship company works in the vineyards meticulously on an organic basis and highly selectively, so all it takes in the cellar are accompanying steps to bring what is highly valued by us and other 35 export countries into the bottle: basic wines with a consumer-friendly price/performance ratio, like the Hugo or the “Von den Terrassen” series and top vineyard wines that are always presented as flagships.
There are the Veltliners from the Erste Lage Berg, Zwirch and Alte Statt, each of which delivers its own location profile to the palate. When it comes to Riesling, the Erste Lage Rothenbarth impresses with clear stone fruit (peach) over citrus fruits and a hint of exoticism in the fragrance, followed by firm, well-integrated acidity. The impressive extract play, in combination with clear fruit styling, ensures a long aftertaste and score ratings that are usually around 95 out of 100 possible.
The portfolio of the former Falstaff Winemaker of the Year (2015) also spans a wide range: from Burgundy varieties to sparkling wine, rosé and elegant red wines. When the author of these lines asked the successful winemaker some time ago where he still sees prospects for the future, he said: “When I get bored, I’ll start working with Pinot Noir!” And this occupational therapy with the king of Burgundy varieties from the Rosenberg vineyard was more than successful!
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