Vermouth, the aperitif that is back to stay

Vermouth is a category within the world of aperitifs, which also includes bitters and aniseed. A vermouth is a wine-based aperitif (white, red or rosé), to which extracts of herbs, flowers, fruits and spices are added. You can add alcohol, sugar and/or caramel. Its alcoholic graduation can vary between 15 and 20% degrees of alcohol. To be considered as such, vermouth must have at least 75% wine.

¨ In 1757, Carlo Stefano Cinzano opened his first herbalist’s shop in Turin (the world’s cradle of vermouth), where he began to serve “the rosso de vermouth” made using his own formula, until in 1776 Casa Cinzano was appointed as official supplier. of the Royal House of Savoia and the sales of his store gained momentum, which generated an absolute explosion of this drink in Turin society, with the creation of the Court aperitif.

In 1800 in Turin the industry of family houses such as Cinzano, Gancia, Martini, etc. flourished. From these origins, a whole series of drinks are adapted or created according to the tastes and traditions of each country: Italy (bitter and sweet and red), France (acid and aniseed and white), Spain (sweet and aniseed and red).

These ancestors today mark the present. Traditions return to the table and habits are transformed. With their own modern characteristics, the bars and coffee shops were remodeled maintaining their style, the classic restaurants were once again filled with people and new vermouth bars were created that take tradition and adapt it to the contemporary world.

Driven in part by the craft movement and supported by the consumption preferences of younger generations, vermouth represented a $1.5 trillion category in 2021, according to IWSR. Today vermouth is more alive than ever, driven not only by benchmarks and leaders in the category, but also by the emergence of vermouth bars and new vermouth proposals with more locality.

Worldwide, and according to industry estimates, since 2012 Some 100 new vermouth brands have been created around the world. Expectations and confidence in the category are high.

The new premium vermouths grow leveraged on the locality of the ingredients, and they do so most prolifically in those countries that are recognized worldwide for their wines: the United States (in California), Australia, South Africa, and of course, Argentina.

One of these examples was the launch of Cinzano SEGUNDO, a vermouth that has a strong local imprint in its Malbec wine base and in regional Argentine herbs and botanicals.

Cinzano consumption in Argentina represents 50% of the brand’s total sales in the world (it is followed by Russia, with 10%). The brand is the leader in the country with a 74% market share, and grew 28% in 2021, always according to IWSR data.

To honor this appetizer, we share recipes by Micaela Najmanovich Chef of Anafe

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1.WHITE FISH RAW

What ingredients do we need?

• cured white fish
• lemon vinaigrette
• cucumber pickle
• red oil
• Olive oil
• flake salt
• Live lemon wedges
• dill, mint
• Shallots, capers, apple

For the cured white fish – Ingredients

• Fillet of mullet or sea bass without skin, without bones
• 200g coarse salt
• 200g sugar
• zest of 3 lemons

Step by Step:

• Mix sugar + salt + zest and coat the fillet well.
• Cover with film and leave in the fridge for 30 minutes.
• After 30 minutes, remove the fillet from the curing salt, wash and cut into thin slices.

For the Red Oil – Ingredients:

• 150ml corn/sunflower oil
• 50 gr ground chili
• 20 gr chopped ginger
• 2 crushed garlic cloves

Step by Step:

• Heat the oil over medium heat.
• Once hot, pour it over the ground chili + ginger + garlic.
• Let cool and strain.
• Reserve the red oil.

For the lemon vinaigrette – Ingredients:

• 100ml lemon juice
• 25 ml spirit vinegar
• 150ml sunflower oil
• 150ml olive oil

For the cucumber pickle – Ingredients:

• 1 cucumber
• tsp Salt
• tsp sugar
• 2 tbsp spirit vinegar

Step by Step:

• Cut the cucumber into a mandolin.
• Season with salt and sugar and let stand so that it loses liquid for 15′.
• Strain and squeeze the cucumbers to release all the water.
• Season with vinegar and rectify salt if necessary.

To serve and present it:

• Arrange the fish slabs on a flat plate.
• On top distribute rings of shallots, cucumber pickle, slices of fresh apple, vivid lemon wedges and capers.
• Season with salt, lemon vinaigrette, olive oil and red oil.
• Finish with dill and mint leaves and a little more lemon zest.

2. HOMEMADE RICOTA AND MUSHROOM TOAST

What ingredients do we need?

• Sourdough toast
• Homemade Ricotta
• golden mushrooms
• Provencal
• pear chutney
• Raw Portobellos on Mandolin
• pine mushroom powder
• fresh oregano

For the ricotta – Ingredients:

• 2lt milk
• 250 gr cream
• 85ml white vinegar
• 150g cream
• salt w/n

Step by Step:

• Heat milk and cream until just before boiling.
• Pour in the vinegar, mix and rest covered for 10′.
• Strain the solids and allow to filter overnight.
• The next day mix with natural cream. Spice up.

For the pear chutney – Ingredients:

• 375g pear
• 60g apple
• ½ tsp salt
• 125g grated tomato
• 60g onion
• 6g raisins
• peel and juice of 1 orange
• 150g sugar
• ¼ tsp. nutmeg
• 15g ginger
• 150g apple cider vinegar

Step by Step:

• Put everything cut small in a pot and bring to a boil.
• Lower the heat and cook until almost all the liquid is reduced.
• Blend and save.

For the mushrooms:

• shiitake
• ambulatory
• Oil
• Butter
• Lemon
• Salt w/n

Step by Step:

• Accommodate in a frying pan where they all fit without overlapping.
• Add oil and butter and leave to brown without touching, more or less x 7”.
• Once golden, deglaze with lemon juice.

To serve and present it:

• Toast a slice of sourdough bread with butter. Spread with the creamy ricotta
• Place the golden mushrooms above the ricotta.
• Finish with dots of chutney, pine mushroom powder, and fresh oregano and olive oil.